Why is My Knitting Curling?

It’s a lesson every knitter learns early on: Stockinette stitch does not lie flat. The cast-on and bind-off edges roll toward the knit side, while the side edges curl toward the purl side. And no, in most cases, blocking won’t fix the problem.

Why Does Stockinette Stitch Curl?

The knit side and the purl side of stockinette stitch are unbalanced. On the knit side, the yarn moves vertically. On the purl side, it moves horizontally. Yarn has energy, created by the combination of crimp in the fibers and the twist imparted in spinning. As the stitches nestle together, that energy is compressed and seeks release. On the vertical knit side, it pushes outward toward the edges. On the horizontal purl side, it pushes toward the top and bottom.

Even after blocking, the edges on this stockinette stitch swatch are determined to curl.

With a bouncy yarn and a tight knitting gauge you pack more energy into a smaller space, increasing the tendency to curl. With a less bouncy yarn (silk, linen, mohair) and a loose gauge, there is less pressure and less likelihood of curling.

How Can You Counteract the Curl?

First, keep in mind that you need not do anything if the edge will be used in a seam or if you’ll be picking up stitches along the edge for a border.

For edges that will be exposed, you’ll need to balance the energy by combining both knit and purl stitches. It need not be a precise 50/50 split. Depending on your yarn and your knitting gauge, you might need no more than ½" on horizontal edges and 2 stitches on vertical edges to prevent curling.

The swatches shown here were all knit with Ancient Arts Yarns Herlig DK (50% Viking Norway wool, 50% Merino wool) on size US 6 (4 mm) needles, for a stockinette stitch gauge of 22 stitches and 28 rows = 4".

Horizontal Edges

Garter stitch, seed stitch, moss stitch, and many varieties of ribbing will all do a good job of eliminating curling at cast-on and bind-off edges. If ribbing is your choice, you’re not limited to K1, P1 or K2, P2. You may find that K4, P1 ribbing lies perfectly flat, if your gauge isn’t particularly tight. Test your preferred ribbing in a swatch to be sure you get the look you want.

Vertical Edges

The vertical side edges of your knitting are referred to as selvedge edges. Let’s take a close look at four different selvedge edges.

1. Slip-Stitch Selvedge

Slipping the first stitch of every row creates a smooth square edge for garter stitch and other textured stitch patterns but is rarely sufficient to prevent stockinette stitch from curling.[PAYWALL]

Slipping the first stitch of each row gives garter stitch a smooth edge, but the stockinette section of the swatch still wants to curl under.

How to work a slip-stitch selvedge:

Slip the first stitch of every row as if to purl with yarn in front; knit the last stitch of every row.

In the Wicklow Wrap, a slip-stitch selvedge is used alongside a textured rib pattern to make a smooth finished edge.

2. Garter-Stitch Selvedge

Working the first and last two or three stitches of each row in garter stitch will prevent curling, but it might not be the best choice for every project.

The first three and last three stitches of each row were worked in garter stitch, preventing curling. But sides of the swatch are shorter than the center.

Garter stitch has a smaller row gauge than stockinette stitch, and it takes more rows of garter stitch to cover an inch than it does for stockinette stitch. In the swatch, the corners are not square because the garter stitch is pulling in. A garter-stitch selvedge is also bumpy, which may not be the look you want for your finished edge.

How to work a garter-stitch selvedge:

Knit the first three stitches and the last three stitches of every row.

The difference in gauge is less of a problem with the Whisper Wrap because the yarn (a blend of alpaca, silk, and cashmere) is not very bouncy and the gauge for this lace wrap is loose. The garter stitch edge can be blocked to lie flat.

3. Seed-Stitch Selvedge

Working the first three and the last three stitches of each row in seed stitch will eliminate curling and is especially pleasing if seed stitch is used in other parts of the design.

The 3-stitch seed-stitch selvedges prevent curling and have a row gauge close to that of stockinette stitch. They are bumpy along the edge, similar to garter stitch.

How to work a seed-stitch selvedge:

Work k1, p1, k1 over the first three and the last three stitches of every row.

The bold texture of seed stitch worked in a super-bulky yarn is a great frame for the stitch pattern in the Loon Lake Scarf.

4. Garter-Chain Selvedge

For the curl-defeating benefits of garter stitch without the bumpy edge, turn to the garter chain selvedge. This combination of a slip-stitch selvedge with garter stitch gives you the best of both.

Occupying only two stitches at each side, the garter-chain selvedge is smooth, flat, and tidy.

In both the swatch and the shawl pictured, the selvedge is two stitches wide. If your yarn is very bouncy or your gauge tight, you may need two garter stitches instead of one to control curling. Knit a swatch before beginning your project to be sure.

How to work a 2-stitch garter-chain selvedge:

At the beginning of every row, slip one stitch purlwise through back loop with yarn in front, then knit 1. At the end of every row, knit 2.

How to work a 3-stitch garter-chain selvedge:

At the beginning of every row, slip one stitch purlwise through back loop with yarn in front, then knit 2. At the end of every row, knit 3.

In the Parastripe Shawl, the garter-chain selvedge provides a consistent edge for alternating panels of stockinette and reverse-stockinette stitch.

These four easy selvedge options will help you create polished edges that stay flat from cast-on to bind-off.

Find these patterns in the Farm & Fiber Knits Library:

• Wicklow Wrap by Jenny Williams

• Whisper Wrap by Lena Skvagerson

• Loon Lake Scarf by Jen Geigley

• Parastripe Shawl by Cecelia Campochiaro