Beginning students knitters are often concerned about putting their knitting down in the middle of a row. They are afraid of losing stitches and not knowing which way to pick the project back up again. A question I hear is, “Why would you want to stop in the middle of a row?” The answer: shaping with short-rows. Not all of us looked good in the 1980s square-shaped sweaters, and we want our knitted pieces to fit the various curves of the human body. Short-rows help to do that.
What are short-rows?
Short-rows are exactly what they sound like: rows of knitting that are not worked across the complete span of stitches on the needle. By working several rows over a smaller number of stitches, more fabric is created in a specific area. This is especially useful to turn the heel of a sock, create a unique shawl shape, or add depth to a back neckline, as Deborah Newton did in her Chill Chaser Poncho in the premier issue of Farm & Fiber Knits.
Short-rows can be used to shape the shoulders of sweaters, creating a sloped edge without stair-step bind-offs. Photo by Gale Zucker
How to work a German short-row
One of the things I love about the German method of working short-rows is how easy they are, compared to the other types of short-rows. I don’t need to remember what strand of yarn to pick up, as in the traditional wrap-and-turn method, and I don’t need additional stitch markers, as in the Japanese method.
To work a German short-row:
* Knit to the turning point in your work. Turn. Your yarn is now coming from the stitch on the left needle and the yarn is in front. Slip this stitch to the right needle.
* Now here’s the important part: Pull your yarn up and over the right needle to the back of the work. Look at the stitch. It now has two legs instead of one and is called a double stitch. If you are working in garter stitch, the yarn is in the back, ready to continue with the stitches on the left needle. To work in stockinette, bring the yarn to the front between the needles keeping the rolled stitch intact.
* When you come back to a double stitch, work both legs together, the same as you would for a k2tog or a p2tog, depending on your fabric.
For a purl row:
* Work to the turning point, keeping your yarn in front. Turn.
* Bring the yarn forward between the needles. Slip the stitch from the left to right needle, and pull your yarn up and over the right needle to the back of the work, creating the double stitch. Continue with the row.
Why use this technique
As much as I love lace and deliberately putting holes in my knitting, having them in the heels of my socks is not happy! Working short-rows without a connection to fill the gap after turning creates unintentional holes. This is caused by the yarn pulling away from the unworked stitches on the turns working the short-rows. Knitting the two legs of the double stitch fills that gap and keeps a hole from forming.
Adding short-rows to your knitting creates a more fitted and shapelier garment that will not only look neater and become timeless garments in your wardrobe. Try them out with the Chill Chaser Poncho or Mary Lou Egan’s Chore Jacket from the premier issue of Farm & Fiber Knits.
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Katrina King is the assistant editor of PieceWork, an avid crafter, and continuing student of life.