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Have you ever opened a book or seen a photograph and thought to yourself, “I have to learn to do that”?
When Emily Lymm first fell in love with knitting, she wondered casually if she could turn her passion for fiber arts into a profession. Not seeing many successful pathways to a career in knitting, she continued as a graphic designer. She loved the visual problem-solving of her job, but as time went by, she wished that she could do more to live her values of conservation and environmental responsibility.
Then one day, she picked up a copy of Rebecca Burgess’s book Fibershed and was immediately captivated with the idea of natural dyeing. She was so certain that she had found her path that she invested in dyepots and equipment, and she set out to learn the nuanced skills to create the colors of her dreams in yarn.
She initially experimented with processing her own fiber and having it milled into yarn but quickly realized that she would need to find a millspun option. Responsibly raised non-superwash wool yarns were difficult to find in the variety of weights that she would need to rely on, so she resorted to cold-calling farms in her home state of Oregon. One of her calls reached the perfect partner: Jeanne Carver, owner of Imperial Stock Ranch, produced just the kind of wool that Emily was hoping for—and her new project, Shaniko Wool Company, was beginning to produce the first fully traceable, RWS-certified yarn in the United States. Emily could base her business on yarn that is demonstrated to sequester carbon in the soil, milled within the United States.
The path to developing her color range has led her to develop colors using with extracts, home-grown dyestuffs, and a variety of other dye materials. She has found old methods for creating richly saturated colors that coax unexpected colors out of familiar dye materials. She has learned to use time and temperature in her dye chemistry.
In this episode, learn how one woman has creates a hand-dyed yarn business—sustainably.
Links
Wool & Palette’s website and online shop
Emily sources her non-superwash Merino/Rambouillet wool from Shaniko Wool. Learn more about the company from founder Jeanne Carver in her episode of the Long Thread Podcast.
Aurora Silk offers natural dye supplies.
Jenny Balfour-Paul, Dominique Cardon, and Anita Quye wrote about the Crutchfield Archive, a collection of natural-dye manuals dating to the 18th century, in Nature's Colorways.
Rebecca Burgess’s books [Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy], (https://www.chelseagreen.com/product/fibershed/) and Harvesting Color: How to Find Plants and Make Natural Dyes
Color: A Natural History of the Palette by Victoria Finlay (Random House, 2004)
This episode is brought to you by:
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The Adirondack Wool and Arts Festival is the perfect way to spend a weekend surrounded by over 150 craft vendors in Greenwich, New York. Discover a curated group of vendors featuring the best of wool and artisan crafters. Throughout the weekend enjoy workshops, free horse drawn wagon rides, free kids’ crafts, a fiber sheep show, and a sanctioned cashmere goat show. Join us September 21 & 22, 2024, and every fall! For more information visit adkwoolandarts.com.