You can’t turn around in the Faroe Islands without hitting a sheep or a sheep owner. Ask a knitter if he or she knows about the Faroe Islands, a tiny country in the North Atlantic Ocean, and the answer will likely be yes. They might not have been to the islands, but they will know that the country is known for its knitting and wool. Knitting and wool are certainly a big part of the Faroese identity, but the sheep are the heroes who knit the people of the Faroe Islands together.
Sheep outnumber the people on the Faroe Islands, but with only 55,000 inhabitants, that might not say much. The Faroe Islands are not big, though. In terms of land area, the 18 islands are 540 square miles, less than half of Long Island, New York, with its 1,401 square miles.
Compared to flocks in many other sheep-farming countries, the majority of the sheep on the Faroe Islands are not owned by a few big farms. On the contrary, a reasonable guess would be that at least every second household on the islands either owns sheep or is closely related to a sheep-owning family somewhere on the Islands. The reason for this is historical.
Centuries of Wool Traditions
Since the beginning of human habitation of the Faroe Islands, sheep have been an integral part of life and society. The first written record of a Faroese knitwear export—socks—is in a Norwegian trade document from 1567. This was the beginning of a centuries-long era when the Faroe Islands’ main exports were knitwear, mostly socks and sweaters, before the advent of the commercial fishing industry.
Until the mid-19th century, the Faroese people mainly lived off the land and what they could get from the sea. The harsh climate and rocky land formation did not favor many agricultural options. The main contributors were sheep, fish, whales, and potatoes. The little the Faroese exported came mainly from the sheep: knitted goods and wool.
Today, farmers shear their sheep once a year, but in the olden days, this chore was attended to twice in summer, first in June and then again two to three weeks later. Which sheep would be brought in for the first shearing depended on how well the sheep was filað, or whether the next winter’s fleece had grown significantly. (Editor’s note: Many double-coated sheep breeds still have the ability to shed their fleece, or roo; the ability is generally bred out when selecting for uniform color, wool type, and consistent strength—traits suited to industrial production.)
You can’t turn around in the Faroe Islands without hitting a sheep or a sheep owner. Ask a knitter if he or she knows about the Faroe Islands, a tiny country in the North Atlantic Ocean, and the answer will likely be yes. They might not have been to the islands, but they will know that the country is known for its knitting and wool. Knitting and wool are certainly a big part of the Faroese identity, but the sheep are the heroes who knit the people of the Faroe Islands together.
Sheep outnumber the people on the Faroe Islands, but with only 55,000 inhabitants, that might not say much. The Faroe Islands are not big, though. In terms of land area, the 18 islands are 540 square miles, less than half of Long Island, New York, with its 1,401 square miles.
Compared to flocks in many other sheep-farming countries, the majority of the sheep on the Faroe Islands are not owned by a few big farms. On the contrary, a reasonable guess would be that at least every second household on the islands either owns sheep or is closely related to a sheep-owning family somewhere on the Islands. The reason for this is historical.
Centuries of Wool Traditions
Since the beginning of human habitation of the Faroe Islands, sheep have been an integral part of life and society. The first written record of a Faroese knitwear export—socks—is in a Norwegian trade document from 1567. This was the beginning of a centuries-long era when the Faroe Islands’ main exports were knitwear, mostly socks and sweaters, before the advent of the commercial fishing industry.
Until the mid-19th century, the Faroese people mainly lived off the land and what they could get from the sea. The harsh climate and rocky land formation did not favor many agricultural options. The main contributors were sheep, fish, whales, and potatoes. The little the Faroese exported came mainly from the sheep: knitted goods and wool.
Today, farmers shear their sheep once a year, but in the olden days, this chore was attended to twice in summer, first in June and then again two to three weeks later. Which sheep would be brought in for the first shearing depended on how well the sheep was filað, or whether the next winter’s fleece had grown significantly. (Editor’s note: Many double-coated sheep breeds still have the ability to shed their fleece, or roo; the ability is generally bred out when selecting for uniform color, wool type, and consistent strength—traits suited to industrial production.)
[PAYWALL]
The author showing the length of the broddur, or guard hair, of Faroese sheep. Photo by Klara Jacobsen
Back then, wool had a different value than it has today. Wool was very important to the household's economy; collecting as much wool as possible, and the best quality, was essential. Even the lesull, the wool the sheep naturally shed in the outfield, was considered a subsidy to the household economy.
The Faroese sheep, a Northern European short-tailed sheep, is a small and hardy breed. Its light but strong bone structure makes it ideal for steep mountainous terrain, which naturally provides for all its dietary needs. This breed has wool in many different colors—white, gray, light and dark red, chestnut brown, and black, or a mixture of any of those colors.
Its double-coated wool is made up of a fine, soft inner coat and a rougher, long-haired outer coat. The coarse outer layer of guard hair (the broddur) holds the wind and rain off, thus protecting the sheep’s body, while the soft inner layer allows air to circulate and keeps it warm. When these layers are combined in the wool, you get a warm, weather-resistant sweater, and if the outer layer is removed, the remaining wool is soft, warm, and perfect for items of clothing worn close to the body, such as underwear. Another characteristic of the Faroese wool is its high level of lanolin.
The author shearing sheep. Photo by Klara Jacobsen
Traditional Faroese Yarn-Making
The manual and traditional process from sheep to yarn is manyfold. After the sheep are shorn, the wool is washed. When the wool is dry again, it is pulled (nappað), which is the process of separating the two layers of wool. This task has no mechanical solution and can only be done by hand.
While gently holding the wool in one hand, you take hold of a few of the longer outer hairs and gently pull them from the root. The separated wool is then carded and spun into yarn. This was what they did back in the day when wool still had such strong economic significance.
The whole family would participate in the process: The men would shear the sheep. Men and women wash the wool. The pulling would be done by the ones with the most talent for it—children were often involved in this process. Carding would be done by both men and women, but for the most part, the men would spin the wool into yarn.
Knitting as a Part of Daily Life
This handknit design by the author is based on traditional Faroese motifs.
Knitting was mainly done by the women, though it was also a chore some men would do. Children were taught how to knit from an early age. My grandmother, Edith í Jákupsstovu (1916–2012), told me how she would have a certain amount of centimeters to knit every day from age seven before she could go out to play.
The sweaters and socks were made for export, so they needed to be knitted well and with a certain tension. The women would do a lot of “knitting together,” i.e., when two people knit the same piece simultaneously—for a sweater holding 16 needles. This was a way to finish a sweater faster, but it was also a great way to teach the children speed and tension. When two people knit the same sweater, neither one must slow the other down—hence, it is a great way to practice speed. It is also important that the tension is the same throughout the sweater. Unfortunately, we don’t see many people knitting together on the same piece today, but fortunately, the handknitting culture on the Faroe Islands is still very strong!
You could think, that with merely 55,000 inhabitants, there could not be much of a fashion scene or innovation in the Faroe Islands—but you would be surely mistaken. On the (short) main street in the capital, Tórshavn, on a stretch of 218 yards (200 meters), you will find five shops hosting seven brands that sell Faroese knitwear, from very traditional knitwear and yarn to international fashion brands. And that is only on that street. There are three yarn brands on the Faroe Islands and probably about 8–10 knitwear brands.
You can’t turn around in the Faroe Islands without hitting a knitter!
The author designed this contemporary style that marries the old and the new: it is handknitted from local wool, and the front is covered with heritage patterning. Photo by Beinta á Torkilsheyggi
Sissal Kristiansen is a proud Faroese who loves her country, its culture, and its history. She is the designer and owner of Shisa Brand. She has a great passion for Faroese knitting, wool, and sheep—to such an extent that she initiated the project The Wool Islands: to promote Faroese wool and knitting. Sissal emphasizes the importance of working collectively to advocate for Faroese wool. She is an international lecturer and part of a consortium of like-minded business owners who promote local wool products and knitwear. Please visit shisabrand.com. For more about the Wool Islands, visit thewoolislands.com.
