Eight Surface Embroidery Stitches for Knitters

A little embroidery can elevate your hand-knitted pieces and add an artistic touch.

Surface embroidery stitches (which are not counted embroidery stitches like cross stitch or duplicate stitch) can be free-flowing and fun! They are not constrained by the size and the shape of the knit stitches beneath them, and they do not have to cover a textile evenly. Embroidery is also a great way to use up the last few precious inches you have of a favorite handspun or hand-dyed yarn.

The stitches can be placed anywhere, and it doesn’t matter if the knitted fabric is made up of smooth stockinette or if it is full of texture. Surface embroidery stitches can be tucked in between lace stitches or be massed atop a pile of cables. They can also be used to repair a garment—which is a nice way to cover a hole or worn spot. Although surface embroidery may appear to be complicated, with a little practice, you will find it to be an easy way to add some spark to your knits!

Susan Strawn has embroidered lovely flowers on her Gaman mittens using French knots, outline, and lazy daisy stitches, PieceWork magazine September/ October 2017. Photo by Joe Coca

Try out your embroidery on one of your handknitted swatches. That way you will be able to test the design transfer method, your fiber choices, the washability of the finished piece, and whether or not you will need to stitch over a fabric stabilizer or interfacing. Remember that your embroidery should not interfere with the natural stretch of your garment.

Here is a palette of pretty surface embroidery stitches that work well on hand-knitted fabric:

[PAYWALL]

1. Chain Stitch: From the most basic chain stitch to some of the more intricate variations, chain stitch is a “line” stitch that can be used to cover drawn lines, both geometric and sinuous. When worked in a metallic thread or shiny silk, a line of chain stitch will resemble a metallic chain or sumptuous braid. A chain stitch swirl worked in wool or cotton can add a simple and pretty accent. When it is used to define swirly designs, it can add a folkloric touch to the bottom of a sweater or a pair of mittens. It is also good for simple monograms.
2. Lazy daisy stitches: worked as individual elements of the chain stitch, they are quick to make, lie very nicely on the surface of a knit, and can be used to form flower petals or leaves.
3. French knots: are very versatile: they are ethereal when a number of them are sprinkled across a large area and are solid and dimensional when massed together. French knots punctuate a design beautifully, and they make pretty flower buds and are perfect for adding eyes to stuffed toys.
4. Satin stitches and long and short stitches: are both are stitches that can cover large areas, and they are composed of straight stitches placed next to each other. Long and short stitches are usually worked in a variety of colors to create a shaded and more realistic effect. Satin stitches are straight parallel stitches that are placed very closely next to each other for smooth even coverage. Satin stitch may require the use of a fabric stabilizer.

These four stitches (chain stitch, French knots, satin, and lazy daisy stitches) can be combined to create any type of embroidered design you have in mind!

Here are some other stitches that translate well from fabric embroidery to embroidery on knitting:

1. Stem Stitch and outline stitch are also both “line” stitches: as its name suggests, stem stitch is often used to embroider stems, and outline stitch is often used for outlining shapes or monograms. Stem and outline stitches are worked in nearly the same way, but with one crucial difference that subtly changes the effect of the finished stitch: when working from left to right, the working thread is held below the line of stitching for stem stitch, and for outline stitch the working thread is held above the line of stitching. Both variations create a wonderful ropey texture that can easily cover drawn lines—stem stitches are slightly smoother and less pronounced than outline stitches.
2. Blanket stitch: a very effective and reversible edging and it is pretty in its simplicity.
3. Herringbone stitch: geometric and it has stretch so it is good to use for borders for smocked designs, and near cuffs and waistbands.
4. Feather Stitch: most often used to make lovely organic-looking stems and vines—add a French knot to each open end to make delicate flowers.

Some tips:

1. Be careful to secure your thread or yarn to the knitted item when you first start, and every time you end a thread. Knit fabrics stretch, so you want to make sure your ending knot or final small stitches stay in place.
2. Satin stitches and stem stitches get pulled through the fabric often, so make sure that you have selected a yarn that is strong enough to withstand the abrasion.
3. Place your surface embroidery designs away from areas that will see a lot of use so that you can protect the embroidered area.
4. Select a needle with a large enough eye to pull the thread through easily so it does not wear out as you are stitching.

It is very enjoyable to select colors and threads for embroidered embellishments. Add a pop of color to liven up your garment, or try embroidering using the same color, or even the same yarn that you used for your knitting for some sophisticated dimensionality. From a dainty floral spray of French knots to a bold chain stitch border design, surface embroidery is a fun way to learn a new skill while customizing a knitted piece.

For more about embroidering on knitting, please visit Don’t Be Afraid of Adding Some Embroidery! Here’s How

For stitch diagrams for all of the stitches listed above and more, see Basic Embroidery Stitches

Pat Olski loves to knit and embroider, and she is the editor of PieceWork magazine.